Did you know that Canada was the largest exporter of yellow, brown, and oriental mustard seeds in the world? Saskatchewan, specifically? Neither did I. Mustard, it turns out, is a big Canadian deal.
Although the crop is not native to our Canadian soil, in 1936, 40 hectares of mustard were planted somewhere around Lethbridge Alberta and did well enough to encourage area farmers. Four years later, the number of hectares planted had grown to 20,000 and participating farms had spilled across the provincial boundary into Saskatchewan. Saskatchewanians embraced the crop and are now the Canadian headliners by a wide margin. The quality of the prairie soil, the hot dry sunny weather it is famous for, and the skill of its farmers, have served to grow the crop into the lion’s share of the world mustard market that they occupy today. The number of hectares that will be planted in the upcoming season will likely exceed 197,700 with an expected yield, if all goes well, of over 155,000 metric tonnes. That’s a lot of mustard seeds.
Individual mustard plants can boast up to 200 flowers during their life cycle (which only lasts one season) and can produce several hundred seeds. The plants themselves put on quite a show with their bright yellow flowers, each with 4 petals. The seed pods are set along the main stem and each pods holds numerous seeds that continue to mature once the flowers have died and the plant has dried up and turned brown. It takes just under 3 months to fully mature yellow mustard seeds and just over 3 months to mature brown and oriental seeds.
Although our country didn’t start growing mustard until 1936, we were well acquainted with the spice. In fact, the oldest mustard mill is in Hamilton Ontario, named G. S. Dunn Dry Mustard Millers, and it opened in 1875. Originally, the company milled spice and also made soap, which might go hand in hand but I’m not familiar enough with either process to see what that connection could possibly be. The company did a rebranding in 1923 and focused solely on milling mustard. That idea succeeded to the point where this mill is now considered to be the largest mustard miller in the world, serving customers in 110 countries. Today, they sell mustard flour, mustard bran, mustard that has been ground, yellow mustard that has somehow been “de-activated” if that’s what you’re after, cracked mustard seed, de-oiled mustard, and whole mustard seed (which doesn’t sound on-brand for a company focused on milling, does it?).
Most of the Canadian yellow mustard seed crop that is exported goes to the US for what they refer to as “the hotdog market”. Yellow prepared mustard is used as its own condiment (clearly on hotdogs and burgers) but also as a player in mayo, some salad dressings, barbeque sauces, and marinades.
The Canadian brown mustard seeds go off to Europe and then return in the form of Dijon. Sort of like gap year students. The oriental mustard seeds head to Asia where they are used in a variety of condiments.
By the way, Dijon prepared mustard doesn’t have to be made in Dijon France. Champagne has to be made in the Champagne region in France and port has to be made in Porto Portugal in order to hold their titles, but that is no longer the case with Dijon mustard. While this type of prepared mustard had been specific to the town of Dijon since the late Middle Ages and a version that we are more familiar with had been settled on in 1856 by a fellow from Dijon, an edict was eventually passed in 1937 that specified what prepared Dijon mustard had to have in it, but that it could be made anywhere and still use the name.
Most folks (including me) leave their prepared mustard ageing in the door of their fridge, but the truth is that prepared mustard can be kept in the cupboard in an air-tight container for 18 months after opening. If it starts to smell like eggs or if yellow mustard starts to turn brown, it’s time to toss it out.
Sidenote: Mustard gas is not made from mustard seeds. It was called mustard gas because it produced a yellowy-brown fog and smelled a bit like mustard when it was unleashed. Also, no one could remember it’s real name of 1-Chloro-2-[(2-chloroethyl)sulfanyl]ethane. The history of the use and testing of mustard gas on its victims is truly heinous and those of us in favour of the condiment that goes by the same name, are relieved that it has nothing to do with our beloved sauce.
The variety of mustards boggle the mind and making a trip to a good quality deli or gourmet food store will reinforce that fact. As you muse your way through their wall of different types of mustards and mustard mixes (honey mustards, fruit mustards, English mustards, mustards mixed with different types of spirits, exceedingly hot mustards, extra sweet mustards, etc.) I can guarantee that your mouth will start to water and that your reusable shopping bag will be full of sandwich or charcuterie items by the time you exit the store, flushed with excitement. But don’t let these well known uses restrict you from experimenting with mustard as an ingredient in your cooking. The sky can be the limit when it comes to delicious ways to use this quality Canadian crop, and almost any way that you think to use it will no doubt cut the mustard!
